You might have heard about some of the small town or neighborhood festivals, known as the Festa Majors, that take place in the streets. These celebrations popcorn around the city throughout the year, especially in the summer months, in each of the different districts. Despite the late nights and multitude of acts, nothing could compare to the days leading up to September 24th, when the entire city of Barcelona transforms itself for the biggest celebration of the year - La Mercè.
As a complete cultural festivals and fun times nerd, I geek out especially hard for this one. With my partner in crime, we keep each other updated throughout the months leading up to it whenever we hear news about the dates, the guest city, possible acts, changes to spaces, and the program… When the program comes out, it’s work time for me, as I scour through every page and every detail, flexing my tetris muscles in schedule organizing, to make some of the most important decisions of the year. Because we have to see EVERYTHING.
I mean, because like...why not? It’s all here and it’s all free. Seriously. It’s like… all of the elements of the regular Festa Majors, but to the extreme. You’ve got cultural events and demonstrations, firework events, light shows/projections, dance, circus, theater, a HUGE music program, games and stuff for kids, and like...food. Yum?! Also, did I mention that all of the performing acts are professional-quality, often invited guests from other cities and even countries - it’s an international affair! They invite a host city every year that collaborates in the artistic aspects, so each year has a kind of theme from that city, showcased by the city’s local acts. Instead of it all being in one neighborhood, the stages are set up all around the city in different parks and spaces. Each space has its own program of events scattered across different mini stages, which in and of itself can be a struggle to see within a day, not to mention there’s like 4 other spaces with the same caliber of stuff going on. It all ends with a bang, literally, with an annual fireworks display in Plaça Espanya. All of that, completely free!
So that’s being general; let’s get into specifics:
- The festival dates for this year are Friday afternoon, September 22nd until Monday night, September 25th.
- This year, the host city is Reykjavik (Iceland). Interestingly enough, the Icelandic theme isn’t as prevalent in the program as much as years past. There are actually a lot of acts from Korea!
- Culural events - The original purpose was to celebrate of one of the city’s patron saints - Mercè, whose holy day is September 24th. Although there are many modern acts, the true heart of the festival takes place in the Old Town, especially around the town hall (Plaça Sant Jaume) where most of the traditional ceremonies and acts take place at the main stage. Here you’ll see the opening ceremony (Friday at 7:45pm), the end shows of parades (for example Monday night around 9:30pm), Giants, baby giants, and beasts dancing (Monday night 9:30pm; Sunday 11am; Sunday 12:15pm; sunday 6pm, castellers (human towers) (Saturday 12pm; Sunday 12pm), sardanes (traditional folk dance) (Monday 6pm; or in other spaces at other times), bastoners (traditional stick dancing) (Monday 11am), and the tabalada (a drum chorus). Also don’t forget the Correfocs (fire runners) on Saturday night in Gothic and Via Laietana (baby ones start at 6:30, big ones are at 8:30).
- Fireworks are Saturday and Sunday nights at 10pm at the beach between Barceloneta and Vila Olimpica. Saturday’s show was done by artists from Reykjavik and Sunday’s from Panama. Be ther at 10 sharp, because the show is on time and only lasts roughly 10-15 minutes. Monday night’s firework finale in Plaça Espanya will be a bigger spectacle and will last longer, so you may consider going early (we go between 8-8:30!!!!) with food and patience. If you’re far away, you hear the fireworks; if you’re close up, you hear the music!
- There’s a bunch of stuff nowadays with technology - you’ll see light show projections on the sides of buildings and statues and everything. One main one is on the town hall in Plaça Sant Jaume every night on loop from like 8:30-midnight. This year’s show is curiously presented by….not Reykjavik, but Germany. This year, a special event at La Pedrera will be taking place with two projections on Sunday, the 24th at 9pm and 10:30pm. If you haven’t seen a projection on a famous building, I highly recommend checking it out.
- Aaaand a bunch of museums are open for free on the 24th because it's a city holiday. Check out the free museums!
- Also, FYI about public transport - they are running special services and the metro is open all night Friday, Saturday, AND Sunday!
- The main spaces for performances are:
- Ciutadella Park and extended to the Arc de Triomphe - Here you’ll see 13 different spaces with shows primarily dedicated to dance, circus, theater, and technology. Performances are Friday night-Monday night, with activities all day until 2am. Also, food trucks.
- Castle of Montjuïc - Now it’s primarily focused on circus performances - there’s 9 spaces dedicated to activities and shows. Performances are only Saturday-Monday from around 12-8pm. And food trucks.
- Palauet Albeniz - In a palace nearly hidden across the Olympic stadium on Montjuïc, you’ll find a range of acts mostly leaning towards theater. Activities seem to be set from around 11am-9pm. And you can visit the palace. And there’s food trucks.
- Parc de la Trinitat - This is the second year they’ve hosted activities out in this park, near Trinitat Vella metro (Red, L1). You’ll find 7 spaces dedicated to dance, circus, and participation-friendly activities and workshops, and you can explore the park. Saturday-Monday from 12-8pm-ish. Also, guess what? There’s food trucks.
- Parc de Sant Marti - In the newest addition to the Mercè festival this year, there’s 6 spaces set up for acts primarily based on music. Just next to the metro Sant Marti (Purple, L2), you can enjoy this space Saturday-Monday from 12-7pm-ish. And yes, there’s food trucks.
- Antiga Fabrica Estrella Damm - In this beer factory (Carrer de Rossello 515) you’ll find a couple (literally 2) of puppet shows and activities set up for families (cough) kids. There’s an eccentric antique attractions park that uses recycled materials to create activities and small rides for kids (one year we rode a TUBA on the carousel) which has been moved here from Ciutadella where it was in the past. The space is open Sunday from 12pm-12am and Monday from 12pm-9pm. NO food trucks. I’m serious.
- Then there’s this whole thing with music. There’s an entire program dedicated to music called (BAM). Every evening (Friday-Monday) there is a plethora of musical acts from genres including traditional, classical, pop, punk, funk, folk, rock, electronic, and international/ethnic. Some radio stations also have special programming and sponsor some famous artists that those more musically-savvy than I might actually know. Main spaces for musical performances include the stage at Plaça Sant Jaume, in front of the Cathedra, Plaça Reial, the area near the MACBA, the Rambla del Raval, Plaça Espanya, just along the Port in front of Maremagnum, the Estrella Damm factory, Bogatell beach, Plaça Major de Nou Barris, and Forum.
I used to tell my parents that I was going to be on Neptune for the duration of the festival, because that was the extent to which I would not be available for anything else. Now, it’s not quite so bad, but I’m still revved up and ready for the festivities to begin!
For information about the schedule of events, check out the website:
www.lamerce.barcelona
There's an app you can download with the latest events here.
To download the program and summaries, go to this page.
And if you are on social media, you can tag
@SigaMigaBCN
@bcncultura
#Mercè17
www.lamerce.barcelona
There's an app you can download with the latest events here.
To download the program and summaries, go to this page.
And if you are on social media, you can tag
@SigaMigaBCN
@bcncultura
#Mercè17